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Female Body Shape in the 20th Century

How has body shape changed during the last century? What were the popular and glamorized body shapes of the day?

Early 1900s

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Camille Clifford
Actress - the quintessential "Gibson girl".


1920s

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Louise Brooks
Dancer, showgirl, and actress.
BMI: 19.9


1930s

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Lisa Fonssagrives
Fashion model, dancer. Referred to as the first supermodel. This picture is from Vogue 1939.

Also:
Greta Garbo

1940s

Betty Grable
The pin-up girl of the 1940s: "The girl with the Million Dollar Legs"

1950s

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Marilyn Monroe
Actress, model.
BMI: 20

Also:
Brigitte Bardot, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly

1960s

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Twiggy
Model.
BMI: 15.

Mean BMI US females (aged 20-74): 24.9

Actresses of the time were in stark contrast to Twiggy:
Jane Fonda (the movie Barbarella, 1968)
Sophia Loren (the "perfect" hourglass - 38C-24-38)
Catherine Deneuve (measurements 33½-24-35)
Ann-Margret
Ursula Andress

1970s

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Farrah Fawcett
Actress

Mean BMI US females (aged 20-74): 25.3

Also:
Jacqueline Bisset, Bo Derek, Brooke Shields.

1980s

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Cindy Crawford
Model - the late 1980s marked the beginning of the age of the supermodel.
BMI: 19

Mean BMI US females (aged 20-74): 26.6

Also:
Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer
Madonna

1990s

beauty-9.jpg

Kate Moss
Model - marked the beginning of the 'waif' look.
BMI: 16

Mean BMI US females (aged 20-74): 28.1

The Gap Keeps Widening
It is tempting to draw an inverse correlation between the BMI of models and celebrities against that of the general population. It seems that as the average joe (or josephine) got fatter, the people we idolized became thinner.

However it is not quite that simple.

Many fashion models have been thin over time. Lisa Fonssagrives (above) described herself as a "good clothes hanger". Did she starve herself to get that way? Probably not.

The 1920s and 1960s both bucked the trend of the curvaceous woman. Ann Bolin, an anthropologist at Elon College suggests that "during periods of liberation, like the 1920s, when women had just gotten the vote, and the 1960s, when the Pill became available, the ideal shape for women deemphasized their reproductive characteristics--the nourishing breasts, the wide, childbearing hips."

Other measures of physical beauty show a very clear trend towards slimness.

  • Waist measurements of winners of the Miss America pageant went from just under 26 inches (1920) to around 24 inches (1980s).
  • During the period from 1979 to 1988, 69% of Playboy models and 60% of Miss America contestants weighed 15% or more below the expected weight for their age and height category.

Influential: High Fashion or Mass Media?
Some countries are beginning to ban fashion models of a certain size - but how much impact will this have on body shape ideals of popular culture? The real mind games come not from the subculture of high fashion - but from the insidious influence of popular mass media.

Remember Ally McBeal? The TV show of the late 1990s portrayed women as being very thin. At a time when mean female BMI hovered around 28 - the actress Calista Flockhart had a BMI of around 15.6. The trend continues today - much of the entertainment industry is fixated with thinness - in spite of a viewing public that keeps on getting heavier.

The last 40 years has seen explosive growth in the accessibility of visual media. Portrayal of full bodies rather than just faces has also been a trend (source). The scrutiny that our modern channels of media allow has reached a level undreamed of 40 years ago. Idols are rapidly created and discarded - leaving behind impressionable masses endlessly pursuing impossible goals.

So What Now?
Today's ideal body shape seems to be a bizarre combination of male desire and waifish androgyny; thin, no hips, big bust. For most this is only possible with a genetically-blessed bone structure along with surgery - something which America is pursuing with a vengeance. Couple this with the "toned" look, where muscular (but not overly-so) women play lead roles in Hollywood, and champion the fitness industry.

How willingly do we subscribe to a cult of perceived beauty that is attainable by so few? Could it be that after all these years, many women are still judged (by themselves and others) on the basis of body shape and little else?

We are a two-body society: one body is an advertising medium, the other body is what you see on the street.

I think it would be nice if hating the way you look weren't so good for the economy. [...] We know, too, that women in ads, knockouts to start with, are artificially perfected beyond human emulation. We know, but we forget. - Anne Bolin

Sources

Changes in Waist-to-Hip ratio of Miss America Pageant winners From 1920s to 1980s (PDF).
Influence of fashion magazines on body image satisfaction (link).
Mean Body Weight, Height, and Body Mass Index, United States 1960–2002 (PDF).
Body shape ideals in magazines (1997) (link)

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135 Comments

Nancy

Anyone interested in pursuing this subject should find a copy of "American Beauty" by Lois Banner (published in 1983 but available used through Amazon for about a buck). Among the fascinating facts therein: When the musical "Florodora" opened in 1900, it created a sensation because of its chorus of six "Florodora girls," each chosen because she was 5'4" and 130 pounds. That body type (close to today's average for American women) was considered charmingly petite compared to the ideal beauty of the immediately preceding age: the super-voluptuous "golden-haired goddess" Lillian Russell. At the height of her international popularity as a stage star, she weighed 230 pounds.

Reply
nonsense

BMI is worse than useless - it misrepresents such a large proportion of the population that bad conclusions drawn from it will have effects in the future. This is well known, but still people lazily persist in trying make assertions with it. Yes, there are problems with body image, health, and particularly the fashion industry. But it the fact remains that most members of the population are overweight or obese and getting more so - so it's pretty obvious that those whose job it is to be in good shape (for some definition of good) will get further away from them. The widening gap also correlates rather nicely with increasingly sedentary lifestyle and worsening diet but no-one cites that as the cause. Try comparing the population of an active and undernourished developing world population with that of mainstream western women and you'll find the same results, but I bet you won't blame fashion, misogyny and body image.

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Sprinkles


Whoa. Don't blame men 100% for what's considered beautiful from decade to decade. It's a little crass of us ladies blaming men for all those expectations. Lets not forget that women also have expectations for male body types. Hey, honestly I'm not attracted to doey dudes and the majority of us know that we aren't. So calling the female body expectations over the years, totally misogynous is a little like bra burning. What's made women so self centered to think that we're the only ones with body image issues?
Studies show that women set standards to compete with other women.

Reply
Erin

Quito you're high, dude. How dare you try to compare the massive, unchecked flood of body image bullshit that's hurled at women daily with the occasional negative image aimed at men? There is no comparison, so don't even try it.

Reply
m!*
jej said:
im currently a fashion model in nyc..and this whole thing is ridiculous[...]

Hahaha, blaming gay fashion designers for skinny models! HAHAHAHA. That's awesome.

Reply
Jan
m!* said:
Hahaha, blaming gay fashion designers for skinny models! HAHAHAHA. That's awesome. [...]

It sounds a bit nuts, but there have been actual sociological studies theorizing the same thing, that the influence of gay men in the fashion world makes the androgynous look more prevalent.

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Lori Nickerson

And the biggest shame is that the medical community is buying into this wafer thin image as being healthy

Reply
Lena

I found this very interesting. I wonder, why are hips so dreaded in women? Personally, although I am female I consider hips to be the sexiest feature of a woman. Has far as breasts go I am all about natural breasts. To me a woman is beautiful no matter how large or small her bust is! When I open tabloids in the supermarket line and see pictures of women with astronomically large, unrealistic, implant endowed cleavage the only thing I can think is how do they find the time to get clothes that will cover their enourmous chests? Not to mention the inevitable back pain my large chested friends mention to me quite often or the effects gravity plays in old age on breasts!!!

Reply
Sabrina

i don't know how many times i've heard people saying they're fat!
It really annoys me, they literally have nothing on them, i feel like saying eat some food will ya! It really shocks me that how many people are so obsessed with their weight, i myself am 5 foot and 1 inch and weigh 84 pounds.
Yes it's not alot but i can't help it! I eat normally and exercise regularly. I'm 13 going 14 in 3 months, i''ve got a curvy body overall and my breats are small, but i'm still growing and i only got my period a few months ago.
As long as you eat healthly and NOT starve urself, u'll be fine.
Remember!
It's beauty that captures your attention but it's personality that captures your heart.

Reply
Sprinkles

Please, all this talk of women having themselves a pity party, is just sickening and brutally insensitive and ignorant to men that desire to have the perfect body. Men have insecurities about their body just as much as women do and feel just as much pressure. News flash, this constant bitching and bra burning that some of the posters are doing, is... uh... erm like a total turn off for men.

Reply
Jan
Sprinkles said:
News flash, this constant bitching and bra burning that some of the posters are doing, is... uh... erm like a total turn off for men.

And this sentence is a turn off for all women. I hate to speak for all women, but I can't think of one that will enjoy a man calling her a b**** or a bra-burning feminist.

Reply
malfouka
Sprinkles said:
Please, all this talk of women having themselves a pity party, is just sickening and brutally insensitive and ignorant to men that desire to have the perfect body. Men have insecurities about their body just as much as women do and feel just as much pressure. News flash, this constant bitching and bra burning that some of the posters are doing, is.[...]
News flash: who gives a shit if it's a "turn-off" for men.Reply
Sprinkles


Come on people. It's absolutely terrible that we as women don't consider men's sensitivities when it comes to these issues. Whether it's sex, body issues or anything, women have come to decide that males are just emotional icicles. Not fair and any psychology study that says so is a cruel pseudoscience. And by the way, I'm not some chauvinist, I'm a female who happens to have sympathy for the opposite sex... wow a rarity!

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FunkyGummyBear


I see where Sprinkles is coming from. It's unfair for women to get all the attention when it comes to body image.

Reply
Jan
Sprinkles said:

Come on people. It's absolutely terrible that we as women don't consider men's sensitivities when it comes to these issues. Whether it's sex, body issues or anything, women have come to decide that males are just emotional icicles. Not fair and any psychology study that says so is a cruel pseudoscience. And by the way, I'm not some chauvinist, [...]

Just because you are female, it doesn't mean you are not a mysogynist.

Reply
Jamie

I think body image has gotten out of hand. I see it on T.V. all the time and I want to look like people that are obviously unhealthy. Ex: Nicole Richie, Lindsay Lohan, etc. It's hard not to think about it when that is all you see on T.V., magazines, etc. I mean I'm 5'foot tall and weigh 96 pounds. I have a BMI of around 19, and I think I'm a fat ass!! What the hell is wrong with me????and everyone else??????It shouldn't matter!!! The media has corrupted our minds and have made us believe anorexic thin is beautiful. This is crazy!!!!

Reply
Sprinkles


Caring about the feelings of the opposite sex, (in this case men), is not misogyny. I hope my generation (Y) will see that men have insecurities just like women. I hope females can learn to empathize with them, instead of condemning them. Condeming men for all the body image press is a really easy cop- out, given the fact that it is a well known secret that women set standards to compete with other women.

Reply
kris

I care about the feelings of the men in my life, because its appropriate, and they care about MY feelings.

Give me an example of a large-breast-ogling-male who cares about that female's feelings? The objectification of women or this idea of perfection and ideals of beauty has exactly zero to do with empathizing.

I am sorry to say, Sprinkles, I find your response horribly misguided.

Reply
Sarah

this is quit an interesting article. At the moment I am studying the effects that the "ideal" body image has on people. After reading all these blogs it seems obvious that many people men and women are affected by these ideals. Lets think logically though. You can't blame men for all these stereotypes. Most are what us women create on our own, and don't deny it. We see girls strut around looking like all that, and I for one have felt insecure. Yes, no doubt the media does have some affect on people, but lets not be too hasty to blame them for all of it. Using men as a scapegoat doesn't help. It's all of us who create this image. No one wants to see anything "ugly" on tv, say having an overweight women model out the instyle fashion cover..sorry not gonna happen. Media is a bussiness, a bussiness can't strive without offering you what it is you want, so if that's what people are buying into, then that's what they want.
For all those men out there, regarding sprinkles comment, I hope you don't judge yourselves by those huge brawny men in magazines. To all women, you're beautiful. Thin or fat are based on how YOU percieve them!

Reply
Chicken Girl
Sarah said:
No one wants to see anything "ugly" on tv, say having an overweight women model out the instyle fashion cover..sorry not gonna happen. Media is a bussiness, a bussiness can't strive without offering you what it is you want, so if that's what people are buying into, then that's what they want.

Why, why, why does everyone always assume that the only alternative to underweight models is overweight models?

Reply
Sprinkles


You know, the media really has nothing to feel guilty about men and women feeling like shit about themselves. All cultures have their body preferences. Cultures have had body preferences since ancient times and if I'm not mistaken, there wasn't magazines back then. In some countries, (Asia), if a woman's face is scarred, her chances of getting married are not good. Back in the ancient Orient, the color of light skin is crucial. In fact, this is still the case. I just recently heard that people were getting mercury poisoning from face creams that were suppose to whiten complexions. So North America; you have nothing to feel guilty about.

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Sandy

I like curvy woman, being too thin means you have no shape. Society today just makes woman feel whatever body shape they have is just not perfect enough. Theres always something that could be improved. I'm 22 and i weigh 55 and i have love handles and i'm fine with it. I just need to excercise to tone up but not to eat less and become stick thin.

Be happy with what you have ladies. Human being are meant to be different and special thats what makes them unique.

Reply
Sandy
Sandy said:
I like curvy woman, being too thin means you have no shape. Society today just makes woman feel whatever body shape they have is just not perfect enough. Theres always something that could be improved. I'm 22 and i weigh 55 and i have love handles and i'm fine with it. I just need to excercise to tone up but not to eat less and become stick thin. [...]
that was 55kg's Reply
Maddie Ruud

Interesting. I just did a similar study, but starting further back in history (see my web page). The waifish figure was only very recently introduced as a standard of beauty. Not to knock thin women--I think every body should be accepted and loved in its natural state.

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preeti

Phew...you are on about androgyny.have u thot abt the other side...being CURVACIOUS.
most Asian (and here, i don't include the Far East) and African women are big-built.
In India, a full-bodied woman was considered the "ideal" type, but now, thanks to westernisation, being twiggy is where it is at.
we have beauty clinics touting 'weight loss' programmes- with guarantees of "losing 5kgs and no sweat"; toning up;body-sculpting;liposuction,etc.- emerging all over the country complete with photos of skinny models.
Something alien to the Indian culture and a dangerous precedent which is getting worse each day!!
Anorexia and bulimia are still considered a western phenomenon despite all the "visible signs."
I shudder to think where all this is leading to..

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Different Nic

If you are talking to me ("Andro Chick"...I thought I was being clever)...I think that all body types are awesome! I was just saying that I have a "boyish" body because that is the way I am built. I'm definitely not twiggy. I think you're right on-- people from different areas have different body types and we shouldn't try to be something we are not.


preeti said:
Phew...you are on about androgyny.have u thot abt the other side...being CURVACIOUS.
most Asian (and here, i don't include the Far East) and African women are big-built.
In India, a full-bodied woman was considered the "ideal" type, but now, thanks to westernisation, being twiggy is where it is at.
we have beauty clinics touting 'weight l[...]

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Different Nic

Er...that sounded a bit stupid. I should say-- people in general have different body types, and probably the area that you are from (as well as many other factors) have something to do with that.

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Maddie Ruud

I wrote an article on this myself!

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Dorothy

Jej interesting point I never thought of it that way, but that makes a lot of sense...

I don't really live my life worried about fashion models because a lot of them don't look normal anymore. In the early 90's late 80's, I thought we really had a lot of beautiful models who were skinny but looked healthy like Tyra and Naomi Rebecca Romijn but as we got into the later 90's and the 2000's its just gotten crazy. Some of them look like their skin has a guant yellow tint and they don't look halthy. I think no matter what size you are the goal is to be healthy...

Reply
Cheri

serotonin
I come close to your stats. I'm a 4'11" female, and thanks to bowflex a considerable portion of my 125lbs is composed of muscle. I also eat only organic and unprocessed natural foods. I do consider my self pretty healthy.

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Maria

I do NOT appreciate how there are No women of color in anyone of these "model" body types. It's actually ridiculous.

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Sakurapower

In the 1920s, the flapper thing was more a fashion trend than aesthetic so were the Mod-New Flapper look of the 60s and the heroin chic look of the late 90s to mid-2000s.
Besides that the sex symbol of the 20s was Theda Bara (presumed to be the anagram for "Arab Death" but in reality a childhood nickname) for her dark eyeliner and curves. In the 90s it was Pamela Anderson of Baywatch fame. Whoever said that skinny women were considered sexy in the 20s or 90s, even now!

I think that society should tolerate that all men and women come in many shapes and sizes, not just curvy and muscular. I mean there are endomorphs (fat men, most women (including curvy and fat)), ectomorphs (lanky and skinny men and women) and mesomorphs (robust men and women).

However it is easier for a skinny man to become a mesomorph through outrageous exercises and antics, ala the Red Hot Chili Peppers and a plethora of other male rockers who dance and jump on stage. To be honest, men (even the round ones) have more lean muscle mass than women so it's easier to make the transition from skinny to robust.

Among women, it's more difficult and even if you work out, you still have some more fat, even more than men but not necessarily obese. Even lanky women have some fat.

Well, the Kate Moss trend is more evident among fashion models and girls than the Twiggy trend. No girl or model of the 60s suffered from anorexia or even vowed to copy Twiggy's frame.
By the way, I'm a comics reader and the majority of female superhuman characters are toned but curvy, some skinny. The skinny aesthetic is arbituary and ironic, men still consider rounded women attractive (most of them I mean).

Jej, designers don't just pick skinny young women because most of them are homosexual men, they are also looking for the hanger factor (lanky women have wide shoulders and narrow hips so they are good for hanging gowns and suits).
But the clothes sometimes look weird on skinny girls, even the makeup since most she-ectomorphs are androgynous (narrow hips, a boyish face). Besides that, I think that modern designers are blind to the fact that there exists many different body shapes for women (curvy, rectangle, pear, apple and round).

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maxxie

Let's face it--- the thinner you are, the longer you will live. There are no fat 90 year olds. You can be pissed off at the media for pushing uber-thin fashion models upon us and proclaim your self proud for being women enough to carry that extra 20, 40, or 100 pounds, but as a whole the fact remains--thin people have better health then their chubby counterparts. Junkies and self-starvers aside, its reality. Put the m&m's down!

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Sakurapower

Again, I don't think many men pursue skinny women again. It's actually more a womanly competition on looking great on clothes that are intended for slighter silhouettes. Besides the image of a skinny woman with a huge chest is unnatural since skinny women don't have that much fat in their chests as would curvy and fat women do. Jan and Androchick, I agree with you on that subject.

In reality, it actually is impossible to find a big-chested she-ectomorph because that doesn't exist, the closest would be fat and curvy women.

There's also a problem with designers as well. Jej, you are correct designers who throw in fat and curvy models are actually making money from it, if they were for real, then they would have designed gowns for such women and these would have frequented fashion shows alongside lanky girls. There's also a problem with fashion magazines that temporarily show voluptuous women but also more for drawing profit.

Mia, it's not that you don't have hips you technically have narrow hips! If you didn't how can you move or give birth?ly speaking, modern models have narrow hips, broad shoulders, flat chests atypical of ectomorphs. But again, why can't people know that woman ectomorphs, when not post-pregnancy, are supposed to be flatchested and thin they can't have a lot of fat in their breasts unless after giving birth to kids!!!

It appears the image of women, for women has become less voluptuous and more immaturely masculine for the thin bodies on the catwalk, boyish faces and long legs. They aren't pretty as girls, but they'd be better looking as men. Even for slender Hollywood actresses, they don't look that pretty, make them wear short hair, suits and men's wing shoes, they're androgynous!
Catwalk models sometimes when wearing makeup, a dress and long hair look more drag than a voluptuous woman wearing short hair, a nice not-so-body hugging sweater and pants with flats. Worse! They look a bit more than just transevites.

Besides that, the women in many paintings facially look more feminine than catwalk models.

Reply
Sakurapower

What does skinny have to do with sexy? That is true in the case of television and movie media but in other media, they embrace the curvy girl ideal.
In popular television media (in the West, specifically catering to both men and women), the ideal stereotype would be that of a lanky girl. In some comics (like the webcomics and superhero comics I like), it's reverse but males would be portrayed as either muscular or rectangular, females often curvy. There is little room for skinny women there.

I think the media contradicts itself in terms of the portrayal of ideal women's bodies. Besides that, I don't think skinny women are sexy for men and it is not so in other media (like certain comics and video games). Furthermore, in certain media women would have curves so to distinguish them from men.
The Pussycat Dolls look skinny and ghoulish with the dark makeup in comparison to the majority of curvy girls found in certain comics (I'm excluding alternative and newspaper comics).

Jej, if 99% of designers are homosexual men, what about 1%, are they lesbians or heterosexual? So what if Donna Karan is bisexual?

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Marie

you know what? I am 5 ft. 7 in. I used to weigh 148 pounds. I was depressed then, but deep down i was happy with my body. I was happy with the way i looked. I was happy to eat, and happy to be alive. Now i lost weight. I am now 126 pounds. Give or take 2 pounds. People started to make a big deal about my weight loss. Complements, and my counselor telling me that i was borderline anorexic. Teachers noticed. Friends noticed. Parents, family, neighbors, anyone you could possibly think of. I felt like they were all watching me. Waiting for me to loose more, or gain. I felt like if i gain a pound, or loose a pound they notice. I get weighed every time i go to my counselor, and it makes me mad. I freak out, cause i know she is watching my weight, and knowing that she is making a big deal out of it, makes me want to too. Honestly if people didn't make such a big deal about my weight then i would not only eat certain foods, weigh myself constantly, or starve and stuff, binge and ride bike 11 miles, i would just be as close to normal as i could be. My point is, i was happier about my body weighing 22 pounds more than i am now. Now i am not depressed, and happy about my life, but my weight, what i eat, and how many calories i eat is an obcessive habit to worry about, an annoying factor that i put up with, something that i don't want to deal with but for some reason i do, now i hate my body, i feel fat, and all kinds of stuff. So just be happy with who you are. Don't let some one's complements lead you on. Listen to your body when your hungry. Don't be like me. Now i spend every minute worrying about calories, and fat.

Reply
sal

i think that the slenderness trend should actually end prompto, i think a woman with sonftness to her looks is more atrractive as opposed to the bony look, hell but that is just my opinion!!

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Bridget

I am totally with you who cares about boney preppy girls who watch everything that they eat i mean honestly...who cares.

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sally

ooh again b4 i forget,am 45kgs and kinda short, av been trying to gain weight for years but it seems thats just aint happenning,av triwd eatig alot but that didnt work i want to reach 55kgs can somei pliz tell me how i can reach my ideal weight? pliz

Reply
Kailash

Sally, do you lift weights? Give your body a reason to grow.

Reply
Supraja Kuntipudi

I have a rather petite, round body which makes me look like a ball rolling down the street sometimes. I think people who are claiming that boyish bodies are great must be really desperate. Curves are a way of telling that you're a woman and not a man. My advise for those who look like boys, get some help!!

Reply


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